Around this time last year, I was in a small town just north of Salzburg, Austria attending something I’ve wanted to see for a longtime – a legit Krampuslauf. A Krampuslauf (meaning “KrampusRun”) is a parade featuring dozens of local men dressed as Krampus, a mythical Christmas beast with Germanic roots. Krampus has gained popularity in North America in the past few years with the introduction of the curious legend in American film and art.
A Christmas Devil
The legend of Krampus is part of a centuries-old Christmas tradition still celebrated in Bavaria and some parts of Austria. While Santa Claus is seen as the Christmas figure who rewards children for good behavior, the half-goat, half-man Krampus punishes naughty children with his switches and chains. He is sometimes known as “The Christmas Devil”.
I dragged my husband to the town of Bergheim, arriving before dusk to make sure we’d find the right place where the Krampuslauf was to begin. While my husband sampled the local beer in a pub up the street, I walked down to the little town square to talk to some locals and find out what was what. People were starting to gather and there were little booths where gluhwein – mulled wine served hot – and other treats were being sold.
I was warmly welcomed by everyone I met, despite being an obvious outsider and the sole American in the entire place. A kind local named Laura Staudinger and her mother talked with me and gave me the scoop on the schedule of events for the night. Everyone was so friendly and seemed somewhat surprised that we had come to visit just to witness the Krampuslauf!
A Beastly Fraternity
As a crowd began to gather, Laura introduced me to some of the men and young boys from the Krampus groups. These groups are known as “passes”. They’re sort of like local Krampus clubs and each have their own name and style. I met a few folks from the Radecker Pass from Bergheim. They were gathering in the square before it was time to go elsewhere to don their costumes for the run. They described how their costumes are made and told me all about their group. They have about 40 active members, including about 14 children ranging from age 6 to 16 years. They see themselves as a family-friendly folklore group.
An Ancient Craft
The incredibly detailed Krampus masks are carved from wood and created by talented local artisans who take their craft very seriously. The costumes consist exclusively of sheep or goatskin. Modern or artificial materials are out of the question. A Krampus performer usually wears large bells on his lower back that act as a counterweight to the incredibly heavy handmade masks.
I was also introduced to several of the children who would be participating as Krampus in the parade. These boys were absolutely adorable and bore no resemblance to the terrifying creatures they would become later in the evening!
A Raucous Gathering
As the festivities got underway, Saint Nicholas showed up to give treats to the crowd of children in the square. Then as night fell, the Krampus groups arrived! The first group appeared at the end of the street amidst smoke and fire. Red lights gave the scene a devilish vibe as each Krampus marched up the street, lunging at the crowds gathered on either side and swatting people with switches!
My husband and I were amazed by the spectacle and stunned by the spine-chilling masks, which consisted of real animal horns. The scary beasts were accompanied by regular folks wearing safety vests. It quickly became clear that these individuals were present to make sure no one in the crowd accidentally tangled with those sharp, gigantic horns. I noticed each Krampus was careful not to walk backward. They were conscientious about where they stepped and who and what was in their path.
Laura’s mother pulled me into the street and called over a terrifying Krampus for a photo op. My husband snapped our picture and Krampus asked me, “You’re the American girl, right?” I nodded and he swatted my legs hard with his switches as he walked away!
Gentle Giants
These guys were truly terrifying and worthy of a Hollywood horror film. You’d think the small children gathered around would be petrified by the whole display. We didn’t see one child who seemed the least bit scared. As a Krampus approached a small kid, he would stop, bend down and give them a hug. We saw one little girl kiss a Krampus right on the nose!
It’s hard to describe what a unique and fun experience this was. Krampuslauf is a centuries-old tradition that has been mostly unknown to people outside Bavaria and the alpine region of Austria. Despite being foreign interlopers, we were graciously welcomed and included in the fun. I hope to get to attend again someday!
Check out more of my photos below, and visit www.radecker-pass.at to read more about the Radecker Pass of Bergheim.
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- What Is A Krampus? I Went to Austria to Find Out. - December 12, 2018
- I Got “Up Close and Personal” with a Military Working Dog - September 7, 2018
- Artist Zack Huffman’s Passion for Fashion and Culture - April 6, 2017
